Do High Flow Cats Work

Do High Flow Cats Work – StainlessWorks 2″ Long Tube Headers with High Flow Cats (Aftermarket Connect to Corsa, MBRP, etc) -2015+ Ford Mustang GT (5.0L) – M152H3CATLG Stainless Works m152h3catlg $2, 255.40 $2, 142.63 $2.63 $1.2EC BAR 12.73 SPECIAL PRICE : !NO COUPON NEEDED!Only 1 left in stock Part Number: m152h3catlg Product Number: M152H3CATLG UPC: 887753439048

We offer a number of coating options at great prices. Head wraps make your car cooler and provide more consistent performance. It is not 100% necessary on a stainless steel head like this, but is great for someone who wants an extra edge on the track and lower cabin temperatures. Coating will add 2-4 weeks to standard order time. If this is a concern, please contact us before ordering. Coating is for heads only!

2015-18 Mustang GT 5.0L Headers with long pipes. Unholy relationship. Starting with our durable ⅜” thick flanges in 2″ diameter elements, 3″ drop headers with fusion barbs, then fit into a 3″ stringer. Extended guides are built to fit MBRP and Corsa as well as SW Factory cat-back systems. Complete freedom in aftermarket connections! No-kinks CNC mandrel belt pipes provide added strength and longevity with our lifetime warranty on our beautiful 304 stainless steel.

Anybody Use 02 Sensor Spacers To Get Rid Of Po420 And Po430 When Using High Flow Cats

Innovative Design: We take our years of experience and inject that knowledge into creating performance systems that maximize horsepower, torque and sound. Each system is designed for a specific vehicle with specific features to achieve maximum performance combined with superior performance.

Solid construction: Made to withstand harsh engine conditions, Stainless Works exhausts and heads are produced from 304 stainless steel, which not only resists corrosion, but is stronger than its aluminum or steel counterparts.

Increased power: Factory specs can be restrictive and hold back the true potential of your ride. Stainless Works systems unlock the power of your machine. Our long tube, free flowing design reduces back pressure and will bring new power you feel and hear.

Limited Lifetime Warranty: The stainless steel header and exhaust are designed to take the punishment of your engine and are backed by a limited lifetime warranty on materials and workmanship.

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Installation-ready: We want to make sure the installation goes as smoothly as possible, so Stainless Works systems are installation-ready. Whether clamps, O2 extensions, bolts or RTV silicone, our headers and exhausts come with all the necessary accessories to make installation as smooth as possible.

Choose from our high-flow catalytic converters or off-road pipes. Aftermarket Connect has many connection options. Editing is required to match the appropriate catbacks.

StainlessWorks 1 7/8″ Long Header with High Flow Cat (Aftermarket fits Corsa, MBRP, etc.) -2015+ Ford Mustang GT (5.0L) – M15H3CATLG

Stainless Dynamic 1 7/8″ Long Header with High Flow Tubular Mid Pipes (Aftermarket Connection – Corsa, MBRP, etc.) -2015+ Ford Mustang GT (5.0L) – SM15H3CATLG

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Stainlessworks 2″ x 3″ Long Tube Headers with Off Road X-pipe (Connect to Factory) – 2009-2015 Cadillac CTS-V Sedan (LSA) – CTSV9HOR

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Corsa Cold Air Intake with Drytech 3D Air Filter – 2019+ Dodge Ram 1500 (5.7L V8) – 46557After over a decade of building on and off road exhaust systems for first and second generation Tundras, I have had minimal luck finding spacers working

I have the perfect length for S & S long tubes on a first gen no cat. And I know what cats do with said heads.

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I also know which cats work on the second generation. with JBA long tubes. And I know some cats don’t work, but are BA!!! And I want them to win. Then we have a friend going to Mexico for a few months to visit these bad boys!!

O2 sensor adapter for use with high flow rockets. Off road of course. Tested in Mexico as we speak by Keith Carty, on Flickr

Restosud said: never had luck with spacers on any vehicle. since there is a cheap electronic replacement why bother? Click to expand… like I said, I got them working in 2003 without cats. I have also had them get rid of the cel on a couple of 5.3’s with cats going out instead of changing cats. She also got to work on a Lamborghini Gallardo without cats.

I’ve seen them not work on a few 5.7’s, although they do work most of the time. But if you use high flow cat electronic sims will not work. And the high flow cat doesn’t make it work well enough. So the most viable option is a spacer.

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Especially when he is overloaded!!! You generate MORE power with cats than without. And you are more likely to destroy a set of cats if they are supercharged, and metal cats take more abuse. So it is only natural to use a metal cat with a spacer when it is supercharged

Used urd sims on a 2008 s/c tundra with no cats and no cel.why wouldn’t the high flow cats make the sim work?

A drilled spark plug spacer works fine. Use two. The first leave it as it is (small hole to prevent exhaust gas from reaching the sensor), the second stacked top-drilled to fit the sensor.

Dirtydeeds said: After more than a decade building on and off road exhaust systems for first generation and second generation Tundras, I have had minimal luck getting spacers to work. I have the perfect length for S & S long tubes on a first gen no cat. And I know what cats do with said heads. I also know which cats work on the second generation. with JBA long tubes. And I know some cats don’t work, but are BA!!! And I want them to win. Then we have a friend going to Mexico for a few months to visit these bad boys!! O2 sensor adapter for use with high flow rockets. Off road of course. Keith Carty is testing in Mexico as we speak and on Flickr has anyone else successfully run spacers to keep the light on the check engine? Click to expand… Hey Keith, just curious what cats you are referring to and what the difference is between the ones you normally use for the racing system.

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Randomwalk101 said: Drilled out spark plug spacer works fine. Use two. The first leave it as it is (small hole to prevent exhaust gas from reaching the sensor), the second stacked top-drilled to fit the sensor. Click to expand… I call bump, sorry

MurkanicMan said: Hey Keith, just curious what cats you are referring to and what the difference is between the ones you normally use for the breed system. Click to expand… I’m testing these with MBS 200 high flow cell metal core cats.

Stacking spacers like @randomwalk101 has suggested didn’t work with cats. Still throwing po420 and po430. Even with cats and spacers combined

I hope the curved adapter will work. A friend of mine in Texas says he uses curved spacers without cats and it works. These spaces are duplicates of size. So we will see

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@MurkanicMan I use several different cats in my race system. Which one we use depends on customer needs. But a simple obdII CA track gauge flow will usually do the trick to turn on the check engine light.

Dirtydeeds said: I call bullshit, sorry I’ve tried this on a few tundras and it doesn’t work. If you work any kind of magic, please share. Click to expand… I’m driving mine now for the last 30K miles or so… no codes.

Run to your local auto parts store and pick up some large spark plugs and drill out the hole to accommodate the O2 tip. I have done this on many cars including a non-convertible RX8.

Randomwalk101 said: Drilled out spark plug spacer works fine. Use two. The first leaves it as it is (small hole to block exhaust gas from reaching the sensor), the second stacked top-drilled out to fit the sensor. Click to expand…

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Boom! I was doing this back in the day when I had a turbo obd2 (97) honda accord. I was not running any cats, just a 2.5 “mandrel bent pipe from the turbo all the way back. I used the two spark plugs to push the additional O2 sensor from the flow. Normally I ran an eprommed obd1 ecu with a conversion harness but once a year when it was time to take emissions i changed the controller back to the obd2 controller, disconnected my wastegatene so i wouldn’t boost, put my injector back in, hooked the egg and vaporized the cans back, then

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